Jaffron indian in New Hope

photo Aleksandar Damevski

A delightful Indian couple is cooking very good food in a slip of a flourescently lit kitchen in New Hope. Their restaurant is Jaffron.

The search for Indian food can yield an off putting array of brownish yellow oily sauces with one overarching flavor that often prove to be unkind to the digestive regions.  

What makes Indian food authenticand enticing? 

Indian food should be packed with fresh ingredients. The vegetables should resemble something of their original form, not look as if they have been mashed into a jar in a far off factory. 

Each family and each Indian chef will have their own special blend of spices - coriander, cumin, pepper, ginger, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay, tumerick - and they will differ from kitchen to kitchen. 

At Jaffron the dishes present an array of interesting flavors. The baigan ka bharta, or baked eggplant with onions, tomatoes, and fresh herbs, does indeed have fresh herbs as well as an array of seeds and leaves and pods from the various spices that are used in the sauce. The aloo gobi matar, cauliflower and potato cooked with green peas, ginger, tomato, and spices also has a collection of spice remnants that end up on the side of a diner’s plate.  The meat dishes are flavorful and fresh. The samosas are excellent, made with a crust that is not too thick or saturated with frying oil. 

Any combination of dishes from the menu will yield equally pleasing results. From the tandoori chicken to the lamb vindaloo each dish has a unique flavor and combination of ingredients. 

The ambiance in the dining room lends itself to take out - nonetheless, there is usually a strong crowd on the weekends at Jaffron, New Hope. New comers to the cuisine of India will find the staff extremely willing to make the necessary introductions.

Marsha Brown's raw bar

Oysters on Ice
Tina Phillips

Date night...where to go? 

Last night it was raw oysters. De Anna’s has great raw oysters but we were just there...so we ended up parking our tired butts at Marsha Brown’s - at the bar. 

I am not a fan of the big “congregational” room upstairs. The bar has even been feeling kind of dated decor wise. But alas, last night Randy told us there is to be a renovation starting next week. His description included booths. Not a fan. But we’ll see. Maybe it will be better. Out with bordello burgundy and in with? We’ll see...

At any rate we were there for squishy,salty things that come on platters of crushed ice with lemons and tabasco and maybe to channel some “New Orleans.”

Louisiana, particularly New Orleans, is renowned for it’s culinary culture of oysters. Why oysters in New Orleans? The estuarine environment (which describes a place where fresh and salt water mingle) in Louisiana provides a home for a veritable cornucopia of mollusks who end up on raw bars throughout the land - lucky for us all. So it stands to reason that Brown would include a raw bar in her Creole inspired restaurant. 

We ordered two of each of the three oysters offered. Two’s picky brother Voislav wants his oysters to convulse with the first squirt of lemon juice. This has never happened at Marsha’s. But then he is used to eating seafood at a restaurant on a dock in Sicily, where we are relegated to an old church in a dark, cold river town. 

Nonetheless, the oysters were very good last night. They did conjure the oceans they came from. The shrimp were fresh and had the right texture. There is nothing worse than the wrong texture or the taste of soapy water from a bite of shrimp. The snow crab claws were good as well. The colossal lump crab meat in remoulade was his good idea.  Despite a vow to eat only sprouted whole grains in the new year we polished off the warm baguette as well. I really do love the chopped salad with gooey blue cheese and bacon. They are very nice to split the order onto two plates. 

All was well last night in rawville. No complaints and really only praise for the raw bar experience at Marsha Brown’s. 

DEANNA"S

I was extolling the virtues of "locals night" at DeAnna's moments ago in a meeting. I thought a word about why this delightful, cost saving evening is worth the effort of having date night on Tuesday would be in order.

$25 includes an appetizer, a choice of main dish, and a dessert. Usually there are three wonderful options from each category. It has been our experience that the appetizer option is either a salad, a soup, or some kind of savory pudding or tart. The  puddings have always been wonderful - somehow they ooze butter and richness but retain the flavor and freshness of the vegetables that are included in their fluffy folds. And a word about the vegetables...they are always very seasonal. So Fall really feels like Fall - high lighting root vegetables and not hot house tomatoes. If there are tomatoes they are roasted(in-house) and intense. 

DeAnna makes her pasta fresh everyday.So usually there will be a pasta choice. When you order a non pasta main dish, there is an opportunity to order a vegetable or a bowl of pasta. It comes with homemade tomato sauce but we special order the pasta with olive oil, garlic, and lots of fresh ground black pepper. Fish is always a great choice too - usually whole and grilled - bronzino most recently. 

There is also always a specials menu. From that I highly recommend the pate with fruit. Highly. 

The menu has remained largely unchanged for awhile, which I like because I always know that when I don't care about getting on the scale in the morning I can order the pasta with proscuitto, peas, and cream sauce and then ask the wait person for extra grated cheese. The raviolli is excellent as well and often featured on the locals menu.  

My personal favorite is the grilled romaine. Which makes me an even cheaper date. Usually it is two nicely sized romaine hearts that are perfectly grilled so that only the tips of the lettuce are charred and then there are nice olive oily grill marks on the body of the lettuce. The Caesar dressing is perfect. The shaved parmesagne also perfect. 

Two other things to mention  - the bartenders at DeAnna's are delightful. When ramps are in season you might find a freshly pickled one in your martini courtesy of Russell. And try the St. Armand - a bourbon based cocktail invented by - you guessed it - Armand. Talk records with Russell and motorcycles with Armand and your evening will be complete. 

Almost. 

Any of the home made Italian pound cakes are amazing. My personal favorite is the blueberry almond. And the bread pudding changes according to - who knows - but every time it is fantastic. The ricotta cheesecake is renowned far and wide. Emphasize wide. Because we always seem to order dessert no matter how many St Armands and how much pasta has come before someone asks if we want dessert.

HAMILTON'S GRILL ROOM (AND THE BOAT HOUSE)

Going out to dinner can be so many things. For One and Two there are times when it is simply a matter of not wanting to cook - rare for two people who love to create in the kitchen - but feed 6 kids for a week and it looks pretty good to have someone put a plate of anything in front of you and then ask nicely to take it away when you are done. 

However, there are those times when going out can be an event. Not necessarily a grand one but an event in the sense that it inspires and comforts and surprises and  entertains. Time stands still and the outside world melts away. 

When One and Two go to the Boat House in Lambertville the margarita is foremost on their minds. Fresh lime juice...great tequila...a splash of Grand Marnier...rocks & salt - what could be more perfect? The standard of margarita has become "is it a boathouse margarita?" The taste is the thing but the soft hammer between the eyes is no small reward. And while pre margarita there is always a promise to go home and cook something, seldom post margarita do One and Two make it past the door to Hamilton's Grill Room.

Last night One and Two found themselves seated at the grill - really the only place they ever sit. Executive chef Mark Miller presided over the charcoal grill and wood fired oven.  

Two started with the potato pancakes with caviar and creme fraiche. This combination always brings Two back to Max Hansen's homemade potato chips with creme fraiche and caviar. Oh my good God. This is the combination fit for the Gods. The food Gods. No joke. The poached egg with caviar at Jean Georges was in the God food club too. Last night's appetizer did not disappoint - tequila notwithstanding. One had the oysters. Paired with 1995 Meursault these oysters sang a salty sea song. 

The tuna - perfect. Two doesn't always order tuna because it can be so firm and dry and frankly bland. She ordered it rare and it came off Mark's grill - rare. Rare and tender and perfect. The mashed potatoes and snow peas were really nice buttery additions. One had the skate - breaded and fried in butter butter and more butter. It was tender and sweet and really fresh. Dessert was raspberry sorbet and a basil panna cotta. Perfect. 

So the thing is - when we are eating out and find ourselves talking about food, cooking, other memorable meals, the meals we are planning for the week  - the ingredients in the sauces we are eating and the combinations of flavors - it is like an artist

going to a museum. We were inspired - by the food - by the atmosphere - by the really nice guy behind the grill sharing anecdotes about his young son's first haircut. 

Hamilton's Grill room remains a really special place. Treat yourself...start with the margarita at the Boat House.