CHIFA PHILADELPHIA

Chifa serves a unique, hybrid blend of Peruvian and Cantonese food derived from the cuisine of the Chinese workers that immigrated to Peru in the 19th century. So close your eyes and imagine a Chinese cook working with the ingredients of South America while along the way picking up some of the techniques of the region and then put the whole idea into the kitchen of Jose Garcas, aka Iron Chef extraordinaire. While your eyes are closed think about many small plates of artfully arranged tapas style dishes flowing from the kitchen by the hands of an endless army of waiters. Not one selection arrived at our table by the same hand. At Chifa, service seems to require a village.

The first dish to arrive was a family of four small buns. Packed into those warm, puffy delights were Manchego and Queso fresco bound in harmony by yucca flour. These little steamy packages were served with a spicy, warm guava jelly making it impossible to yield to mom's warning not to fill up on the bread. A little sip of the great Rioja that One ordered and we embarked on our excursion through Chef Garcas' menu. First to arrive were choices from the Ceviche section of the menu. We chose Medai and Shellfish. Medai was composed of green chili, mustard oil, and coriander along with very thin slices of fish. The dish was light and refreshing with each flavor speaking quietly amongst its neighbors. Shellfish was a richer dish and provided a nice compliment to the delicacy of the Medai. Two kept marveling at all of the thinly sliced fried adornments on the plate...wow...never thought to fry thinly sliced chorizo to crispy perfection. The mussels and shrimp held center stage while the adoring saffron sauce and peas provided backup without overpowering the star of the show. The saffron rice cake on the side was great comfort food in the slightly risky foreign world of this kind of plate that requires curious examination prior to eating. Next to appear was Pulpo, Spanish octopus, with rocoto (a chili pepper common in Peru and among the oldest of domesticated peppers grown up to 5000 years ago) puree, olive escabeche, and purple potato salad with crispy bacon. These flavors were far more assertive than those in the Ceviches that it followed. The octopus was tender. Period. How often does that happen? But what we wondered was why it always seems to be so salty. The potato salad was a nice counterpoint to the the salt of the octopus - providing a moment for the palate to rest a bit before diving back into the ring with the powerful flavor of the octopus. The bacon was like a little smoky campfire on the plate - a momentary bold diversion from the octopus. Kobe beef wrapped in lettuce slid onto the table behind the plate that I really think One licked when Two wasn't looking...It was at this point when we started to need sips of the sparkling water because in all honesty, the octopus wasn't the only salty dish. The Kobe beef and its peanut sauce somehow got lost amidst the power of the oils and salt crystals. I will say that on its own the peanut sauce was fantastic - the peanuts tasted fresh and roasted with the sweetness of coconut just slightly apparent. The lamb struck the same salty cord with the sauce overwhelming the really nice little lamb chops. The sauce was very good - but perhaps just as a bed rather than a bed and blanket. The ginger quinoa and pickled cucumber beside the lamb was a thoughtful combination. Next outrageous guest was the Lobster noodle. Flat white noodles, rocoto cream, parmesan, and peas studded with big chunks of tender, sweet like a sea breeze lobster. Ohhhh....comfort food beyond all comfort. Hot, steamy, cheesy, melty...excuse me while I swoon...and despite the heaviness of the creamy, starchy goodness, the delicacy of the lobster held sway. By this time One and Two were full. But why not try the wild mushrooms topped with puff pastry. Loosen the belt and watch the waiter pop open a steam vent in the pastry and pour in the cream. I think that's about all that needs be said about the mushrooms other than that there were little cubes of tofu and potatoes in there and maybe a fava bean or two.

The menu is a nice balance of homey comfort and light delicacy. The combinations are original and balanced. The elements of each dish are paired beautifully though at times the escalation of the intensity of flavors reached a climax in some of the dishes that was a bit overwhelming. Try to pop back and forth between the two when ordering.

Was there room for dessert. Oh...the dessert. We would go to this restaurant just for the dessert. Wow. Cold, slightly sweet coconut sorbet, a little upright slice of smooth passion fruit curd, a crispy chip of coconut meringue, passion fruit parfait, and young coconut noodles is a combination suited to our version of heaven on earth. Try to keep the pleasurable moans to yourself. Just try. We dare you. Then move onto the Hazelnut Mocha. Conversation will cease as your spoon brings the thick, semisweet mocha ganache to your lips with a touch of the cold, espresso granita. Spoon the sweet cream ice cream to your mouth with the hazelnut brittle. Go on - use your fingers here in heaven. Why not? We gladly give