BISTRO ONE

Last evening the menu at Chez One offered pan broiled monkfish with a saffron shallot butter and white wine reduction that was cooked and seasoned to perfection. The only edible portions of the monkfish are its muscular tail and its liver. The tail meat of the monkfish is excellent. It is dense, sweet, and very similar to lobster tail meat in both flavor and texture.The fish was tender and juicy with a bit of browning from the broiler. The chef had procured fingerling potatoes that were more fingernailling in size. They were served with butter and chopped parsley. The thin skin gave way crisply between the teeth to the warm, starchy interior of the potatoes. Sauteed fresh baby spinach in garlic and Portuguese olive oil completed the plate. The meal was wonderful. The sweet, lightness of the fish was enhanced by the white wine sauce. The elements of the meal were simple, yet artfully arranged on the plate...the atmosphere quiet and unassuming. While Two ate hers, One explained the homely appearance of a monk fish...even that did not deter Two from soaking every bit of the sauce up from her plate with the Olive bread. What a delight on a Tuesday evening. Bistro One is highly recommended.

MT.FUJI JAPANESE SEAFOOD & STEAK HOUSE

Sushi originated in the 4Th century BC in Southeast Asia as a preserved food. Cleaned, salted fish was preserved by the natural fermentation of the rice in which it was stored. This Nare-zushi was taken out of storage after a couple of months of fermentation The fish was eaten and the rice was discarded.

Sushi spread throughout China and by the 8Th century AD it was introduced into Japan. The Japanese preferred to eat rice with fish, so their version of sushi, Seisei-zushi, included rice. It was consumed while the fish was still partly raw and the rice had not lost its flavor. The Japanese sushi became more of a cuisine rather than a way to preserve food. This shift led to Haya-zushi, which utilized both rice and fish. Rice was mixed with vinegar and combined not only with fish but also with various vegetables and dried preserved foods.

Which brings us to the 21ST century at an aging strip mall in Southampton, Pennsylvania, for dinner at Mt. Fuji. The whole strip mall restaurant concept is alien to Two. New Hope, Lambertville, and Doylestown are full of restaurants that have the luxury of great old buildings in which to locate. They have charm and character even if the food is challenged. So when Two met One and started going to restaurants inconspicuously tucked into strip malls it was a new experience. The word MALL makes Two cringe...where One is far more tolerant and open minded. Behold miracle of miracles Mt.Fuji manages to transcend location and deliver decent Sushi. One and Two sat at the Sushi Bar. There is also a drinks bar. There are a number of Hibachi tables. The restaurant is nicely divided into smaller seating sections that allows for some sense of intimacy in the surroundings.

The meal was good. One started with the Yaki-Tori which consisted of tender grilled chicken on skewers punctuated with grilled peppers. There were two very good sauces along with shredded daikon. Two ordered Jumbo Shrimp Shumai. Big crispy green dimpled fried balls of hot shrimpy stuffing were piled on top of one another with a dipping sauce on the side. If this was the bread then One and Two were, yet again, filling up on it. One and Two ordered two different rolls, one fresh and full of salmon, avocado, and cucumber - the other a spicy concoction with a friendly balance of sticky rice, crispy tempura shrimp, and a spicy sauce. Both the sushi and sashimi were fresh and flavorful. The sushi, sashimi, and rolls were all prepared and served on one dish, upon which the chef managed to impart a sense of both abundance and artful simplicity.

Tempura fried pound cake encased green tea ice cream was rather an uneventful ending to our meal. Two should have known better. Stick to the red bean or green tea ice cream.

Overall One and Two enjoyed their sushi meal at Mt.Fuji. Was it Morimoto? No. Was if transcendent? No. Was it a Sushi Experience...you know... the one where the chef gleefully, but with a deadpan expression, "challenges" you to try something that is still moving? No. But it was a great place to satisfy the Sushi craving that One and Two get from time to time. Enjoy.

CONTINENTAL FOR DRINKS & ZAHAV FOR DINNER

The weather warmed last night, beckoning people out of their cozy homes to experience the city released from the bone chilling weather of last week. One and Two started their evening at the Continental at 2nd and Walnut. One had an Old Fashioned...a warming yet refreshing drink that did not skimp on the Maker’s Mark. Two had a Ketel One Cosmopolitan which had a great splash of citrus. Needless to say the walk up to Zahav was further warmed by these delightful concoctions. The room at Zahav is large with windows opening to the kitchen. Neither One nor Two have been to any countries that specialize in the food served at Zahav, so they had no basis by which to critique the authenticity of the decor. This lack of basis for comparison is often the case when going to a restaurant specializing in ethnic food, so we can only assess whether the decor contributes or detracts in any way to the whole experience. The room felt to Two like just another big restaurant decorated by a hip designer with a Middle Eastern flair. Nothing special but nothing terrible either. One and Two were led to a smaller dining room set off from the larger one. Unfortunately someone had recently wiped the hammered copper tabletop with a strong smelling cleaning solution that One had a hard time appreciating. So often those first moments at a restaurant really set the tone. Two sat down across from one and immediately started redesigning the tables to be 6 inches narrower so that she could hear her companion and maybe even reach his hand. The waiter arrived to “educate” us in his ubiquitous waiter cadence about how the menu worked. The menu has a section of starters and then three categories: Dairy, Meat, and Grilled Over Coals. Dessert follows. One and Two chose the tasting menu, as it seemed a reasonable value, was fairly flexible, and allowed for selections from all areas of the menu.

One enjoyed ordering from the wine list. Selections from Lebanon, Morocco, and Israel were among the regions represented which provided a fun opportunity to sample something new. He selected a Sauvignon Blanc from Lebanon that was fruity, tart, and dry with a nice hint of Granny Smith apple which complemented everything. The meal started with the Salatim & Hummus with Laffa. The waiter brought first a plate of hummus and flat bread to the table and then the Salatim. Two had recently heard of a competition in Israel and Palestine to create the biggest serving of Hummus. The record is held by chefs in Abu Ghosh who whipped up more than 4,000 kg. of hummus, adding a Guinness Book record to the Arab town's reputation for hospitality and harmony . In that area of the world Hummus is not only a staple food but also a point of competition. The restaurateurs interviewed claimed with conviction their hummus to be the best in the land. The man interviewing them tasted their hummus and described it. For those of you familiar with hummus in little plastic containers in the grocery store, sit down. Hummus can be as varied as the people making it. It can be smooth, coarse, lemony, and the list goes on. The hummus at Zahav is excellent. It has a smooth but not pasty consistency and is served with warm puffy flat bread. Again, One and Two found it hard not to fill up on the bread. We highly recommend the Salatim. It is served in 8 small dishes and offers a great selection of small salad and vegetable creations that highlight the flavors of the cuisine. One and Two felt that they would have been better presented along with the dishes that followed as accompaniments. The eggplant and the okra were excellent. The chopped parsley, pomegranate seeds, and couscous were a great combination that would have been wonderful beside the bronzino that was to follow. Little hot relishes were placed beside the Salatim and were used throughout the meal for flavor. One ordered Malauch which combined a coarse tomato and roasted pepper puree with egg yolk and kashkaval. The puree had a well balanced smoky flavor, the egg yolk added an interesting touch, and the cheese added a pungent dimension. Two ordered Israeli Persimmon Salad with Bulgarian feta, green olives, and endive. Again the dish had an agreeable balance created by the sweetness of the persimmons, the very sheepy (think barnyard) feta cheese, and the bitter endive. Both dishes delivered an overall experience of a dominant flavor with other flavors providing backup voices. One followed his Dairy course by choosing Sweetbread Schnitzel with sesame, barberries, and pickled cabbage. The Schnitzel took the form of fried cubes, crowned by nicely cured cabbage, resting in a sauce. Two had Kibbe Naya. Both preferred the crisp juxtaposed to the tender effect of the sweetbread. The Kibbe was stickier...almost pasty. Both dishes were, however, nicely flavored and beautifully presented. And again, Two really wanted those little Salatim selections to come back. Al Ha’esh means grilled over coals. One ordered the Jaffa which was Bronzino, bulgar pilaf, dates and celery. Two ordered Monsieur Merguez but got the Bronzino as well somehow. Of all the dishes it had the strongest flavors. Not only was the fish characteristically strong but so was the caramelized celery and date combination. This dish would have been wonderful with something to lighten the flavors in between bites. Dessert followed with One ordering the Dark Chocolate Babka and Two choosing the Labaneh Panna Cotta. The Panna Cotta was outrageous. The pistachio baklava beside it came in the form of a small square and lacked the punch of a more traditional baklava. But again, the lemon combined with the pistachio and the smoothness of the panna cotta were an inspired combination. One was not as happy with his chocolate dough ball. He started looking for a scoop of ice cream which is never a good sign.

Zahav excelled in our estimation at combining what are traditional ingredients to the cuisine of the middle east with creativity. No dish had too much or too little of any ingredient. Flavors were well balanced. Portions were well suited to sharing between two people. Zahav would be fun with a large group. Try as many dishes as possible and share. Keep the Salatim around as you eat and use it to accent the dishes as they arrive. Above all do not eat a big forkful of the hot green relish as Two did by accident unless there is a big piece of flat bread at hand.

JEAN-GEORGES NEW YORK

How does a restaurant earn the coveted WhereTwoEat 5 mortar and pestles? Let's start with examining why we go out to eat. Hunger. Ease. Diversity.Entertainment.Socialization.On some rare occasions however, you may find yourself walking into a space where almost immediately things seem different. The room is welcoming. The smells from the cooking are entrancing. The host or hostess makes you feel as if you and only you are expected and welcome. Your table is just right. The menu is enticing. And as the food starts to arrive with perfect timing, beautifully plated, exquisitely prepared and presented, your heart begins to melt. Your shoulders drop. You sign to your companion and roll your eyes with delight. All senses join in the ecstasy of the meal. What cosmic forces align to create this transcendent dining experience? A restaurant may be a five one night to One and Two and a three on another night to someone else. So perhaps we should qualify our mortar and pestle system by saying that the scoring is based on the restaurant's potential to deliver a certain level of experience. This sounds like a bit of a disclaimer but my point is that a rating is a relative thing. One and Two can really only try to relate their experience and assess the symbiosis of elements that may have combined to lead to it. In thinking about our meal at Jean-Georges last summer, we have come to the agreement that a large part of our five M&P rating was due to the expert and gracious attentions of Hristo Zisovski.

Hristo Zisovski started cooking at one of his father’s diners in Rochester when he was 14 years old. He went on to enroll at the Culinary Institute of America. After an eating and drinking tour in France with Chef Voislav and Voislav's wife Stephanie, Hristo became completely enamored with wine. He took courses through the American Sommelier Association, where Chuck Simeone, then wine director at Jean Georges, was a lecturer. At the young age of 27, Hristo can now be found at Jean-Georges in NYC as Chef Sommelier. His work has received numerous glowing reviews. Of his experience at Jean-Georges, Maurice Graham Henry wrote of the"...fabulous wine pairings selected by Hristo." Additionally, Hristo Zisovski was third runner up for Best Sommelier in America by the American Sommelier Association of America.

Which brings us to the meal...

Hristo asked us two questions before we began our adventure with him: "Have you had breakfast?" and "What are you doing after you leave here?" We answered "No." and "Going to galleries." He smiled and said, " great...and by the way you are going back to your hotel to rest after this." We though this funny given our energy level but smiled back into his young face. After that everything was a blur. We sat in that restaurant from noon until 3PM. One started with Jean-Georges' signature egg caviar, a creamy smooth not quite scrambled egg mixture that is returned to the shell and lavished with caviar. Two had thin pieces of toast with poached eggs and caviar. Both were expertly paired with champagne. From there the day is a blur. Had One and Two been writing at the time they may have taken notes. But as it was they just sat back and soaked in the expert pairings of wines and beers and sakes with the tasting plates as they arrived. Hristo provided eloquent reasoning for his pairings. Every dish and every drink were beautifully matched. One and Two were served different things each time plates arrived, each carefully eating half, trying hard not to cheat with the really tasty morsels, and then switching plates. Dessert was exquisite. One had a chocolate tasting of four selections. Two's plate emphasized fruit. By the time the meal was over, One was wondering how they would get back to the hotel. Two was wondering if she could even find the door. Beyond the generous pourings of the various libations, the food, the atmosphere, indeed the whole experience was intoxicating. Thank you, Hristo. Go meet this young man and experience his passion for his profession first hand. Have something to eat while you are there...

CHEZ VOISLAV (yes...again)

One and Two are soon to be reporting as Two and Four as they head towards doubling their waistlines. Perhaps the New Year's resolutions should start...tomorrow. Last night the truffles reappeared at Chez Voislav. Resident pastry chef Nadezda served crepes, or Palacinke as they are know in her native country, with truffle infused Serbian orange blossom honey. They were made just feet away from the table and served in a stack warm from the pan. They were light, paper thin, and perfectly browned. Need we say more about this moment? We think not. You will not find more delightful crepes anywhere, and the addition of Chef Voislav's honey infusion pushed all right over that edge of truffle addiction.

PHO AND BEYOND

One cold, wintry, windy evening One and Two ventured out to have Vietnamese food. Someone recommended the new restaurant Pho and Beyond in Willow Grove. In all honesty, Two was looking forward to food arriving at home in little greasy bags to be eaten cross legged on the floor in front of the TV (please don’t tell her kids.) But One really seemed to have his heart set on a hot bowl of Pho. The only problem is that the hopelessly hyper critical and by now freezing cold Two was somewhat reticent and perhaps therefore predisposed to be hyper critical.

The door of Pho and Beyond opened into a smallish new restaurant. The decor was nouveau Asianish with fresh flowers placed on each table. Two hates dropped accoustic tile ceilings...One told her to calm down and get over it. Two wondered why the cascade of water in the front window hadn’t frozen over given the cold blasts of air that filled the room each time the door opened as she slid into a chair at the table for two and was greeted by a blanket of cold air blowing firmly across her lap. One asked to move and was cordially accommodated by being moved to the table that time, and the wait staff forgot. Eventually an order was taken and food began arriving in a timely manner. One had the fried pork belly spring roll. One and Two both agreed that it was very good, well presented, and filled with fresh ingredients. No complaints. Two had shrimp rolls on lemongrass skewers with peanuts and a delightfully light orange dipping sauce. Had the rolls been hot and crispy rather than warm and soft they would have been excellent. Given that the restaurant is new, Two would reorder them because the issue seemed more one of timing than quality. The appetizer plates sat on the table until One moved them out of the way for the waiter to set down the main courses. One had a Pho that he declared excellent. The broth was well seasoned and traditional, filled with meatballs, brisket, and flank steak. Bean sprouts, jalapeno, basil. and various herbs were set for him to add to the soup. All of the vegetables and herbs were exceptionally fresh and flavorful. One was happy. Two ordered a chicken curry with peanuts, coconut, and cilantro. Despite the addition of chili and then hoisin sauce, the dish simply lacked flavor. Two finally resorted to tearing up bits on One’s basil into the dish. The chicken was tender. The rice was properly cooked. The sauce had potential, but lacked depth. It took so long for the dishes to be cleared and for anyone to ask that we lost interest in dessert. Overall, we recommend the restaurant in a see for yourself, somewhat guarded fashion. They are new and in many ways our complaints are not uncommon for a new restaurant. We really couldn’t figure out why the table of eight right next to us had such wonderful service and ours was so poor. If eating is to be a holistic experience then perhaps go here for takeout and create the ambiance at home on the coffee table in front of the TV.

CHEZ VOISLAV

If you find yourself in Nice and feel like driving one hour to the town of Lourges visit Bruno's for what could only be described as a transformative gustatory experience. If you are unable to fly to France for dinner perhaps we can recreate the homage to Bruno's that Un et Deux experienced at Chez Voislav's on New Year's Day. We all have formative events that inform our passions. For our chef, the event that dominoed forward into the future of last night was an episode of Julie Child's The French Chef. Julia and vicariously her viewers visited a restaurant in France that specialized in the use of truffles...Brunos (uttered with a light sigh if the speaker has been there.) Later, while driving in France, Voislav and his wife Stephanie literally stumbled into the same restaurant that had captivated Voislav at the age of twelve while sitting in the family living room in Rochester, New York. They charmed their way into a lunch reservation the next day and eventually held their wedding at Bruno's. Un had the pleasure to attend. Deux has yet to have the pleasure, but was treated to a truffle dinner at Chez Voislav's last night.

Our first course was Brouilllard de Truffles Noir. The eggs had been nestled in the truffle box overnight so that their flavor was infused with the essence of the truffles. The eggs were then cooked with butter, truffle oil, and cream while being constantly whisked until they achieved a somewhat curd like texture. These eggs are more stroked than scrambled. Served in a lovely china cup on a matching saucer, these creamy eggs had an elegance that was beautifully balanced with the rustic earthiness of the grated truffles in the eggs and the shaved truffles that lay on the top. Deux ate hers slowly, guarding her cup while Un tried to lick his cup.

Next to arrive were the Pommes de Terre avec les Truffes Noir. Biting into a baked tuber was a nice contrast to the prior liquid consistency of the eggs. Each baked potato half rested in a light truffle cream sauce with truffle oil. Shaved truffles completed the dish. If excellence is to be achieved in any form of expression, one's experience of the result of the artistic endeavor should be multisensory. Bury your face in a potato engaged with a truffle and you bury your face in the earth of France. And if you have been there it will trigger memory. If not perhaps it will excite you to the point of buying a plane ticket. These potatoes were a mini flight to the soil of France. Bread was a must to soak up any lingering sauce on the plate.

The 1982 Chateau Margaux was a wonderful compliment to the leg of lamb infused with fresh oregano, Dijon mustard, and truffle extract. The chef's method of infusing the lamb with these flavors is his secret and testament to his creativity. The strong flavor of the lamb, whose center was perfectly medium rare, pushed the truffle back into a position of accompanist for the main course. Chef Alex created a delightfully earthy porcini, fresh pea, and Parmesan risotto with shaved truffles that was served with the lamb. Hercules, the resident chien at Chez Voislav, lovingly cleaned the remaining lamb from the bone.

Un et Deux agreed that a simple salad of mixed greens between the potato and the lamb courses would have been a welcome respite to the wintery weight of the menu. Were we sick of truffles by the end of our truffle dinner? Mais non! Duex suspects that truffles may have an addictive quality. The more we ate of them the more we wanted. Shaved, grated, and infused in oil these little black nuggets danced across our palettes until we rose from the table and loosened our belts once again.