WRAP THE JOY OF LIVING UP INTO THE JOY OF FOOD...FINDING EATING EXPERIENCES THAT TAP INTO THE SENSUOUS, THE REMEMBERED, AND THE TRANSFORMATIVE...

3.08.2010

TAKASHI


Japan and France meld seamlessly into the delight that is Takashi. Tucked into the Chicago neighborhood of Bucktown in a small two story house converted to a charming restaurant, chef Takashi Yagihashi provides a transcendent dining experience. The Chicago neighborhood of Bucktown, according to popular theory, got its name in the early 1800's as a result of its largely Polish population's interest in raising goats, the male of which is called a buck. Now it harbors one of the largest communities of artists in the Midwest...along with numerous bars, galleries, and restaurants such as this one. 

We walked into the house~restaurant and were greeted by the staff. No attitude. No cross looks. No I am better than you are and do I really have to take that rag you call a coat...Yes. You sense attitude. The boutique, micro portion, attitude driven restaurant model gets on Two's nerves. Our waiter, by contrast, was warm and helpful in a there when we needed him and invisible when we were enveloped in our mini nirvanaesque cloud of delight that the atmosphere, food, and wine created for us. 


Like many menus these days, this one is designed as a tasting menu with smaller portions. However, the portions are not so tiny that they evaporate on the way to one's mouth. The menu is divided into small hot and cold dishes, main dishes, and dessert. Some sound distinctly French, like the Trio of Pate, while others like the Autumn roll are distinctly Japanese. When Two thinks of Japanese food, fish and wasabi come to mind. Sit down in a French bistro and wine reductions with meat and potatoes comes to mind. Red wine...saki...wasabi...herbs de provence...tofu...foie gras...oil...water...and yet, chef Yagihashi works magic combinations with the disparate ingredients and techniques of these two distinct cuisines. 


Two ordered Autumn Roll which was a great combination of textures. Smoked Salmon and Caviar, Apple, Crispy Baguette, Haricot Vert Mustard Caper-Golden Raisin Vinaigrette melded together beautifully. One ordered Chilled Fresh Homemade Tofu Oba Leaves, Green Onion, Bonito Flakes, Wakame, and Umami-Ginger Soy. The consistency of the tofu was unlike anything that will ever grace your grocers shelves. It was light with a gentle taste of soy and worked perfectly with the little piles of things dancing around it on the plate. 


One could hardly bring himself to share his Soy-Ginger Carmel Pork Belly with Pickled Daikon Salad tucked into steamed buns. Momofuku in New York serves a similar dish and that was the best thing we ate there last summer. Our waiter informed us that there is a bit of a friendly competition over whose is best. Well, Mr. Yagihashi, we think yours is. The Seared Main Skate Wing with Japanese Mushrooms was amazing as well set atop a creamy but light cauliflower risotto. Two ordered the Sautéed Maine Scallops and Soba Gnocchi. Oh man. Talk about finding treasures in unexpected places. Every piece of gnocchi Two has ever had has been a mere carrier for some kind of sauce. She found this gnocchi hiding under a foam covered scallop. They were delights all on their own and then to be nibbled with scallop and the foamy sauce they were transcendant. 


Dessert was outstanding. Somehow One and Two managed to stuff that in too. As Two sits writing this she wonders if this chair will continue to hold her expanding posterior. Get out the running shoes. In the meanwhile if you find yourselves in Chicago, DO NOT MISS TAKASHI.
One and Two give Takashi

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