WRAP THE JOY OF LIVING UP INTO THE JOY OF FOOD...FINDING EATING EXPERIENCES THAT TAP INTO THE SENSUOUS, THE REMEMBERED, AND THE TRANSFORMATIVE...

3.02.2011

TAKASHI...again











When One goes to the Chicago Dental Society Annual Meeting Two tags along for two reasons. One is the Chicago Art Institute and the other is Takashi. If you are going to be in Chicago for just one meal, grab a cab to Bucktown and savor Takashi. Every dish that touches down on the table hovers for a moment in mystery, because even if you read the description of the dish, it is always more than it promises. First of all, the presentation is captivating. It invites what must seem to other diners like strange scrutiny when One and Two lower their heads to the plate to examine the visual impact of the dish.

"What is this? How did they do that?"

Some of the dishes bare their visual souls easily. Those who hearken to their austere Japanese heritage are easier to decipher. It is within the pairings of the flavors, textures, and temperatures that the dishes gain their complexity. The first dish One and Two had the pleasure to sample was the ceviche of shrimp, squid, hokkaido scallops & octopus cherry tomato, cucumber, fennel, red onion, with yuzu-ceviche sauce. Oh wow. That list of ingredients says it all. Next to warmly arrive was soy ginger caramel pork belly, pickled daikon salad, and steamed buns. Two could eat these little puffs of pork and bun every day. We could call her BIG Two under such a circumstance. But wait...there's more. The dish that stores the most delightful mystery is the sautéed maine scallops and soba gnocchi, trumpet royale, and celery root-parmesan foam. Those little gnocchi float beneath a hot, light, rich foam complimented by soft scallops.
At this point we should have stopped. The Cava, the Reisling, and the Pinot aside, we were getting full. Did I mention we slipped in the country pate somewhere near the beginning of the fun? Try to resist the roasted wisconsin young pheasant, chestnut risotto, golden chantrelle mushrooms, jerusalem artichokes, and pearl onions. I defy you. If you order it you will eat it. And then you will use bread to get whatever is sticking to the dish. My only regret...no room for dessert.

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