A THOUGHT ON THE WINTER SOLSTICE

Two was in One's office today having a lovely conversation with one of his staff. He popped his head into the room and made some wise comment and then grinned and left. "He is in love. It's written all over his face," she said. One year, nine months, eighteen days, and three hours ago Two met One at La Morena in Hatboro for pork skin tacos. And every meal since then has been memorable in one regard. Set aside the service, the menu, the presentation, the wine...and what is left is the dinner companion.

As we leave behind the old and bring forward the new, as the days get longer once again, remember what really makes a meal wonderful...the person or persons that sit with you while the flavors cross your palette. One is not the only one with the look of love on his face. Two finds herself deeply in love as well on this cold Winter Solstice evening, waiting for One to meet her at an as yet to be determined restaurant...and who really cares which one as long as he is there to meet her.

PAGANINI DOYLESTOWN

I (Two) was having a conversation with my friend Pauline yesterday. We were praising our significant others for their formidable skills in the kitchen. Having graduated from the Cordon Bleu and having worked in restaurants and having cooked for admiring friends throughout the years, Two was unprepared to be intimidated by One's cooking skills. But alas, she was. One trained under two masters, his Serbian mother and her parents and the illustrious television personality of the 70's, Julia Child. One is impressive to say the least. Two has finally learned to cook along side him without wondering what it is that she thought she knew. Humility is a virtue, right? A virtue that Two continues to hone as One continues to shine in the kitchen. Pauline's significant other is no slouch either. He asked her to zest a lemon the other night for his pasta...then looked at her cautiously..."Do you know how to zest a lemon?" Whereupon she replied, "Do you even have a lemon zester?"

"No."

"Well I have two!"

Again, more humility in the kitchen. But honestly, what a wonderful lesson to be faced with learning - to have two great cooks in the kitchen.

Which brings me to our sad lack of entries this summer. We cooked from our garden. We cooked from Marie's garden. We went out, but mostly to sit at the bar and drink martinis and munch on bar snacks. Well, it's time to head out again. Last night we went into Doylestown for dinner al fresco. If you wander down past the Doylestown Inn you will come to a number of restaurants that offer outdoor seating. Paganini has a great outdoor garden festooned with trumpet vines that remarkably blocks much of the noise from another restaurant, 86, that features some sort of loud music. The fountain is also a lovely touch. All of the sauces are made to order, with each night featuring three pasta dishes. One had speck, peas, cream, and parmesagne linguine which was just right on richness, though One wanted more speck. Two had the special, rotini with red pepper flakes, capers, and feta. Also very good. Buffalo Mozarella and fresh tomatoes started the meal. There have been restaurants that blew our palettes right out of the atmosphere, stilling conversation as we marvelled over the unusual and sublime. This is not what you will find here. This is very well crafted Italian comfort food with fresh ingredients and rich flavors. By all means try Paganini.

MEALS

Meals has been in Stockton New Jersey forever. Two worked in the same building as an assistant pastry person years ago before it became Meals, when the restaurant was called Cakes and Catering. Not much has changed. Two's parents swear by the brunch served there, Two has had a number of nice homey meals there, and recently Two thought she might introduce One to a nice local place to eat...no strip mall in sight.

The evening started off on a great foot. Phillips Fine Wines is across the street from the restaurant,convenient since Meals is BYOB. Two knew One would love it. And he did. He asked the proprietor, Dick Phillips, if he had an obscure bottle of Chinon, which he did, and a true wine geek relationship was formed. Phillips is a wonderful wine shop and if this were a wine blog, Phillips would be tipping the edge of four wine bottles. Wine in bag, One & Two walked across to Meals and sat down to the worst corn fritters ever created. The fritter was a soaked in oil saturated soggy fried mass whose inside was full of bits of corn slogging through uncooked batter, none of which was improved by the slightly warm raspberry mayonnaise. The fritter dish sat piled with it's picked over carcass cooling on the plate while we sat and sat and sat...and sat. The wine bottle slowly emptied. The restaurant slowly emptied. We saw the lettuce part of the salads that we ordered appear on the prep bench in back and then they sat. The crowd had dwindled to two tables when the grilled duck met it's plate of lettuce. One ordered the flank steak to adornhis lettuce. Two has found more palatable and interesting lettuce in January than that cushioned her duck. The dressing was equally blah. The duck was not bad. One's flank steak was not bad either. It would have been better if there had been some wine left to go with it but alas we had to occupy ourselves somehow while waiting for our meal. Two knows plenty of people who have had good meals at Meals, so give it a shot. Maybe someone/everyone at Meals that night were off their game. The fritters didn't even make it to the field.

KRAFTWORK

Michael Thomas has left Bar Ferdinand to help create a new restaurant called Kraftwork. Sculptor Andrew Jevremovic, whose work is self described as sensuous, sustainable, and otherworldly has designed the room which additionally houses lighting made from unknown objects found outside the restaurant as well as the remnants of wall finishes found during construction. The resulting ambiance is casual with a strong industrial, yet relaxing sensibility. The place retains a sense of its history without being overly historic. The wine list is small but chosen with respect for the menu. One and Two had a lovely Rioja with their meal. Kraftwork is also a beer lovers paradise with over 20 beers on tap and take out growlers. Again, One and Two sampled two different beers and loved them both. The menu is seasonal and local wherever possible, reflecting Chef Michael's passion for a farm to table experience. Our first dish was Crispy Pork Croquettes. The plate was very reminiscent of Bar Ferdinand, with a refreshing shift from tapas to a more homey blend of flavors. The croquettes sat atop a honey mustard sauce, more mustard than honey, with a parsley caper salad and pickled red onions. The pickled onions, in our opinion stood out above salad and sauce. Pork croquettes were good as well. The charcuterie board, again reminiscent of Bar Ferdinand was very good, particularly the rabbit terrine. It came with a wonderfully creative herbed flat bread. Chef Michael is talking about creating his own sausages on premise so stay tuned for that event. We ordered the new Jersey asparagus with fried egg and shaved Manchego from the specials page. Each spear tasted like Spring...toothy and tender at the same time. The fried egg provided a simple, almost rustic sauce accent and the shaved Manchego....we wanted more of that in the ring with the asparagus. Last to arrive were the Ricotta Dumplings served with Roasted Red Pepper Harissa sauce. They were good. Everything was good, from the decor to the beer to the food to the wine to the casual, yet hip and fun staff. There is not yet transcendence. One and Two have had dishes at Bar Ferdinand that elicited a sigh from the first bite. Our Kraftwork experience did not provide that, though from all appearances, that experience is soon to come as everything aligns itself at this great new place to go in Fishtown. Definitely go and try Kraftwork.

WILD BLUE CATERING, INC.

Measuring the success of a catered evening is somewhat different than assessing a restaurant experience. The chef who endeavors to take his or her show on the road faces a unique set of challenges. To begin with, they guide the menu choices, but do not always choose them. The personality of the client and the composition of their guest list will often dictate the choices that are made. Then the food needs to be packed for safe travel to where it will be finished and served. And finally, the meal is usually served all at once. The chef is as a conductor at the event.

On a recent April evening One and Two arrived at Nova Care Center for a Children's Hospital special event to kick off the Eagles partnership with CHOP's Center for Autism Research, or CAR. The evening started in the sun flooded entryway of the building with cocktails. Guests were then moved to a cheese table further into the building. While the venue was lovely, it was an "event facility", and certainly did not have the charm of a quaint bistro in ambiance. Nonetheless our chef/caterer for the evening managed to create a culinary ambiance with a wonderful combination of cheeses and cured meats from DeBruno Brothers. The Mole Salami was wonderfully spiced with chocolate, cinnamon, ancho and chipotle peppers. There was a mustard oil and pear preserve as well as a white truffle infused honey both of which were wonderfully paired with the cheeses. His hot selections included a traditional as well as a lobster risotto. Both came steaming from the kitchen, something not always easy to accomplish in a catering situation. One wolfed down his lobster risotto before Two had a chance to try it, but from the look on his face it was pretty good. The sliders were made from local grass fed beef and were moist and flavorful. The duck steamed dumplings were very good. The quesadillas were also worth seconds that Two indulged herself. While the list of choices was not unusual or surprising, they did make sense for the cross section of palettes at the event where physicians, philanthropists, coaches, and hulking football players stood side by side enjoying the food. Dinner was more challenging for the group. The fresh pea soup was utterly Spring green...so green Two expected a tulip to pop from the center of the bowl. The peas were the stars with no other flavor overpowering them. One and Two loved the soup. Others at the table were not so sure. Two was reminded of her first pureed fresh spinach soup she served to her dad who promptly asked if she had cleaned the underside of his mower for the ingredients. The dinner was a simple selection of chicken with carrots and green beans with roasted potatoes. It was light, direct, and approachable. Dessert was served in the Eagles locker room. Calm down boys. Once the air started to clear of testosterone and the men started to collect themselves, the single bite pastries didn't stand a chance. Each was a delightfully subtle combination of flavor and texture, from little dollops of almond to miniature carrot cakes to raspberry with chocolate...all delightful.

Planning a catered meal requires both attention to detail as well as understanding the gestalt of an event. One course needs to flow seamlessly to another. It occurred to Two that dessert could easily have been placed right next to cheese and the two would have sung a beautiful song together. Overall, Wild Blue did a lovely job with the evening. One and Two also appreciated Chef Koye's use of local produce and grass fed beef, as well as his friendly and approachable presence at the event.

1/2

LOS SERAPES

Mexican food, done properly, is a mini vacation South. When Two was a kid her parents took her to Chi Chi's for Mexican. Two always ordered the Chimichanga...a deeply deep fried melange of chicken and cheese and rice...no wonder Two shopped in the plus size department at Sears. When Two was a kid her Midwestern born and raised mom brought home a new product made by Old El Paso that provided all of the ingredients for a "taco". Two still remembers being sick to her stomach after that meal. Then Two went to Mexico and had real Mexican food in the Yucatan. She was served Mole that someone's grandma taught them to make and green "gravy" and red "gravy" pooling all over a plate of homemade refried beans and rice with a cooked to a state of no cutting necessary flank steak shoveled into the mouth with a homemade tortilla, followed by flan. Finding that food is not at all impossible here in the Delaware Valley, however finding the deep fried Chi Chi variety is equally easy and not always easy to avoid. Los Serapes in Horsham did a great job of transporting Two to a Mexico to which she had been and One to the one he imagines and will someday experience. The menu is typical. Guacamole, Seviche, Empanadas, Flautas...all the dishes you will recognize. What sets this place apart from the Chi Chi's of the world is that the vegetables are all fresh. The seafood is fresh. The dishes are creative. There is someone cooking in the kitchen who understands traditional Mexican food and at the same time enjoys adding a creative touch. One had Cocktail Seviche, which consisted of grouper, baby shrimp and scallops marinated and cooked in lime and orange juices. The ingredients were marinated in a tangy tomato sauce with olives, avocado and cilantro. It was served with homemade corn tortilla chips. Very good. As a main course One had the mole. It was excellent. It was homemade. Authentic. Two had the Carne Asada “Estilo Tampiquena”...grilled Filet Mignon strips accompanied by spicy cheese enchiladas, rice, re fried black beans, mild rajas poblanas, guacamole and homemade pico d’gallo. It was wonderful as well. Along the way One and Two sampled sipping Tequila from the Tequila menu. There is something about a really good tequila that can transport the sipper right to Mexico. Of course that same tequila can transport the sipper right to a hangover, so be careful with this menu. Oh. The restaurant is...yes...in a little strip mall. The quaint decor doesn't start until you get inside, but once there you will enjoy a mini Mexican vacation.

TAKASHI

Japan and France meld seamlessly into the delight that is Takashi. Tucked into the Chicago neighborhood of Bucktown in a small two story house converted to a charming restaurant, chef Takashi Yagihashi provides a transcendent dining experience. The Chicago neighborhood of Bucktown, according to popular theory, got its name in the early 1800's as a result of its largely Polish population's interest in raising goats, the male of which is called a buck. Now it harbors one of the largest communities of artists in the Midwest...along with numerous bars, galleries, and restaurants such as this one. 

We walked into the house~restaurant and were greeted by the staff. No attitude. No cross looks. No I am better than you are and do I really have to take that rag you call a coat...Yes. You sense attitude. The boutique, micro portion, attitude driven restaurant model gets on Two's nerves. Our waiter, by contrast, was warm and helpful in a there when we needed him and invisible when we were enveloped in our mini nirvanaesque cloud of delight that the atmosphere, food, and wine created for us. 

Like many menus these days, this one is designed as a tasting menu with smaller portions. However, the portions are not so tiny that they evaporate on the way to one's mouth. The menu is divided into small hot and cold dishes, main dishes, and dessert. Some sound distinctly French, like the Trio of Pate, while others like the Autumn roll are distinctly Japanese. When Two thinks of Japanese food, fish and wasabi come to mind. Sit down in a French bistro and wine reductions with meat and potatoes comes to mind. Red wine...saki...wasabi...herbs de provence...tofu...foie gras...oil...water...and yet, chef Yagihashi works magic combinations with the disparate ingredients and techniques of these two distinct cuisines. 

Two ordered Autumn Roll which was a great combination of textures. Smoked Salmon and Caviar, Apple, Crispy Baguette, Haricot Vert Mustard Caper-Golden Raisin Vinaigrette melded together beautifully. One ordered Chilled Fresh Homemade Tofu Oba Leaves, Green Onion, Bonito Flakes, Wakame, and Umami-Ginger Soy. The consistency of the tofu was unlike anything that will ever grace your grocers shelves. It was light with a gentle taste of soy and worked perfectly with the little piles of things dancing around it on the plate. 

One could hardly bring himself to share his Soy-Ginger Carmel Pork Belly with Pickled Daikon Salad tucked into steamed buns. Momofuku in New York serves a similar dish and that was the best thing we ate there last summer. Our waiter informed us that there is a bit of a friendly competition over whose is best. Well, Mr. Yagihashi, we think yours is. The Seared Main Skate Wing with Japanese Mushrooms was amazing as well set atop a creamy but light cauliflower risotto. Two ordered the Sautéed Maine Scallops and Soba Gnocchi. Oh man. Talk about finding treasures in unexpected places. Every piece of gnocchi Two has ever had has been a mere carrier for some kind of sauce. She found this gnocchi hiding under a foam covered scallop. They were delights all on their own and then to be nibbled with scallop and the foamy sauce they were transcendant. 

Dessert was outstanding. Somehow One and Two managed to stuff that in too. As Two sits writing this she wonders if this chair will continue to hold her expanding posterior. Get out the running shoes. In the meanwhile if you find yourselves in Chicago, DO NOT MISS TAKASHI.

One and Two give Takashi

C~HOUSE CHICAGO

One and Two are away for a few days. Friends were so excited when Two announced an upcoming trip.

"Oh how exciting! Which bikini are you taking? Where is One taking you?"

"Well, actually I am packing my warmest coat, gloves, and two pairs of boots."

"Are you nuts?"

One and Two arrived in Chicago. And yes. It's cold. It's windy. What two better reasons to pack in the carbs? Ten floors down from the room in which One and Two are staying is C-House, the award-winning celebrity Chef Marcus Samuelsson’s highly acclaimed restaurant designed by Arthur Casas, a Brazilian architect. The room is big and airy but has a nice sense of intimacy created by the warm wood tones and the coffee table design and cook books that are sitting around when one sits down to eat. Diners can order from the menu or they can select a tasting menu. There is also a tasting menu paired with beer. 

One and Two chose to order from the menu. The first thing placed on the table was warm, homemade brioche style bread. Inside the delicate aromatic puff of yeasty delight were little warm buds of cheese. Well, it's cold in Chicago. Why not eat two brioche loaves the size of large softballs...with warm cheese inside? Two lightened up and ordered 6 very fresh raw oysters from the C-bar, the restaurant's raw bar. They came with a great house made smoky tomato relish and did not fail to deliver a quick mental trip to the ocean. 

Two is constantly wondering why One keeps telling her that bringing tupperware to restaurants is tacky...but this sauce was amazing and so much went back to the kitchen. Tomorrow's eggs were screaming for it. But no matter. One keeps Two in line. One ordered Octopus Terrine with a fennel and satsuma salad with bacon aioli. Wow. It was outstanding. Imagine the smooth melt in your mouth pure pleasure of sweet cream butter but replace the flavor with octopus. It was outstanding. The aioli was a perfect compliment. 

As an entree One ordered Poached Sturgeon wrapped around peekytoe crab, fennel and pickled crab apple. It tasted like the bottom of a muddy river...in a good way. The fish was not overwhelming but definitely had the distinctive flavor of sturgeon. The fishiness was lightened by its pairing with the fennel and apple. Two ordered Scallops perched on parsley root, golden raisins and brussels sprouts. The dish was well presented and tasted great but nothing terribly unusual or breathtaking about the concept.

Like so many restaurants these days the food comes on large plates in small portions with even more amusing dribbles of sauce wrapping around the plate. It seems that some chefs recognize that in every grown adult is a little kid who just wants a big plate of mashed potatoes. Mr. Samuellson addresses this need with his offerings of sides that arrive family style in cast iron dishes in quantities to satisfy any inner child's needs for something to go with the increasingly decorative entrees that are offered. The brussell sprouts in balsamic vinegar were decent, though One's are better. But the Polenta...oh the polenta. It was loose and light and just outstanding. Had there been any left, Two would have dumped it into the zip lock she had used on the airplane for her lip gloss. 

In fact, the little girl in Two wished she had left the scallops on the raw bar and ordered the mac and cheese. Now that would have been a meal paired with the bread...

BISTRO ONE

Crisp, buttery Baby Bibb lettuce with homemade Danish blue cheese dressing and a hint of lemon is a really wonderful way to begin a romantic Valentine's Day meal. Dry aged Delmonico steak tied into a beautiful well marbled round, seared in a hot cast iron skillet with sauteed button mushrooms and young green onions, and placed in a hot oven to finish to a perfect medium rare with a wine and butter reduction sauce settled next to buttery spinach and baby potatoes is an equally knockout followup. Two simply swoons to recall the beautiful plate placed before her in Bistro One.

JARRETTOWN HOTEL ITALIAN RESTAURANT AND BAR

Obviously the whole restaurant review process is subjective, particularly when the reviewers are not only considering the quality of the food but the decor, the staff, and the overall gestalt of a dining experience. Certainly there are some aspects of the experience that are more objective such as the freshness of the vegetables or the quality of raw fish. But this review, we will warn you in advance, is among one of our more subjective. 

The food at the Jarrettown Hotel isn't bad. Of course if you tell your wife her new haircut "isn't bad," you should probably duck. It is an "Italian" restaurant. The quotes here signify an overall theme to the menu, but not, in our opinion a true taste of the cuisine of Italy. This is where Two gets opinionated. Drive down the road and look around you in this bucolic Bucks~Mont neck of the woods. What do you see? Is there much of anything left in its pure state? Look at the Mc Mansions being built. The Tudor styled mock colonial country french melange that passes for some taste of Europe or Early American style. One and Two drive by a restaurant in Willow Grove that bills itself as an American French Fusion Asian Bistro. What on earth is that? These restaurants and houses and malls are all like a Disney world illusion...like the land of make believe. 

The once classic stone inn that houses the Jarrettown Inn is still stone. There are parts of its original charm left inside. But what dominates is high end mall decor. It is restaurant design on suburban steroids. Think granite and brass. There is nothing Italian other than a Chianti or two. There is no stepping across the thresh hold to Italy. But sadly, the limbo is complete because there is no sense of the Inn's history either. Then open the menu. Italian 101. 

Any restaurant calling itself Italian first needs to realize that bread is life and life is bread. Bread should be fresh. Sometimes bread should be warm. Bread should never ever be tough, dry, and stale. You guessed it. The bread was tough, dry, AND stale. And there was no olive oil to resuscitate it in. 

One ordered the antipasti. There was nothing bad about it, but nothing memorable and nothing that wouldn't be available at your local market. The Caesar salad that Two ordered with grilled shrimp was not bad. No complaints other than again, nothing special. Two ordered the salad as her entree but the waiter brought it with the antipasti which made for too many vegetables spread across the bar. Then much much much...much later the waiter brought the pasta that One had ordered after the Caesar was long eaten so that One ate his meal solo. The gigantic bowl of pasta was topped with what was making a valiant effort to pass as fresh tomato sauce. The main dish took so long to arrive that dessert was out of the question. 

In some settings the ambiance is so pleasant that waiting isn't such a chore, but when the decor, menu, and food are conspiring to send the diners into the same nether world as Two enters when she even gets close to a mall, most pass. We are sure that many will like this place. After all, if there weren't demand for twice removed from their sources cuisine and architecture, then places like this wouldn't be so popular as witnessed by the full dining areas.

BISTRO ONE

Last evening the menu at Chez One offered pan broiled monkfish with a saffron shallot butter and white wine reduction that was cooked and seasoned to perfection. The only edible portions of the monkfish are its muscular tail and its liver. The tail meat of the monkfish is excellent. It is dense, sweet, and very similar to lobster tail meat in both flavor and texture.The fish was tender and juicy with a bit of browning from the broiler. The chef had procured fingerling potatoes that were more fingernailling in size. They were served with butter and chopped parsley. The thin skin gave way crisply between the teeth to the warm, starchy interior of the potatoes. Sauteed fresh baby spinach in garlic and Portuguese olive oil completed the plate. The meal was wonderful. The sweet, lightness of the fish was enhanced by the white wine sauce. The elements of the meal were simple, yet artfully arranged on the plate...the atmosphere quiet and unassuming. While Two ate hers, One explained the homely appearance of a monk fish...even that did not deter Two from soaking every bit of the sauce up from her plate with the Olive bread. What a delight on a Tuesday evening. Bistro One is highly recommended.

MT.FUJI JAPANESE SEAFOOD & STEAK HOUSE

Sushi originated in the 4Th century BC in Southeast Asia as a preserved food. Cleaned, salted fish was preserved by the natural fermentation of the rice in which it was stored. This Nare-zushi was taken out of storage after a couple of months of fermentation The fish was eaten and the rice was discarded.

Sushi spread throughout China and by the 8Th century AD it was introduced into Japan. The Japanese preferred to eat rice with fish, so their version of sushi, Seisei-zushi, included rice. It was consumed while the fish was still partly raw and the rice had not lost its flavor. The Japanese sushi became more of a cuisine rather than a way to preserve food. This shift led to Haya-zushi, which utilized both rice and fish. Rice was mixed with vinegar and combined not only with fish but also with various vegetables and dried preserved foods.

Which brings us to the 21ST century at an aging strip mall in Southampton, Pennsylvania, for dinner at Mt. Fuji. The whole strip mall restaurant concept is alien to Two. New Hope, Lambertville, and Doylestown are full of restaurants that have the luxury of great old buildings in which to locate. They have charm and character even if the food is challenged. So when Two met One and started going to restaurants inconspicuously tucked into strip malls it was a new experience. The word MALL makes Two cringe...where One is far more tolerant and open minded. Behold miracle of miracles Mt.Fuji manages to transcend location and deliver decent Sushi. One and Two sat at the Sushi Bar. There is also a drinks bar. There are a number of Hibachi tables. The restaurant is nicely divided into smaller seating sections that allows for some sense of intimacy in the surroundings.

The meal was good. One started with the Yaki-Tori which consisted of tender grilled chicken on skewers punctuated with grilled peppers. There were two very good sauces along with shredded daikon. Two ordered Jumbo Shrimp Shumai. Big crispy green dimpled fried balls of hot shrimpy stuffing were piled on top of one another with a dipping sauce on the side. If this was the bread then One and Two were, yet again, filling up on it. One and Two ordered two different rolls, one fresh and full of salmon, avocado, and cucumber - the other a spicy concoction with a friendly balance of sticky rice, crispy tempura shrimp, and a spicy sauce. Both the sushi and sashimi were fresh and flavorful. The sushi, sashimi, and rolls were all prepared and served on one dish, upon which the chef managed to impart a sense of both abundance and artful simplicity.

Tempura fried pound cake encased green tea ice cream was rather an uneventful ending to our meal. Two should have known better. Stick to the red bean or green tea ice cream.

Overall One and Two enjoyed their sushi meal at Mt.Fuji. Was it Morimoto? No. Was if transcendent? No. Was it a Sushi Experience...you know... the one where the chef gleefully, but with a deadpan expression, "challenges" you to try something that is still moving? No. But it was a great place to satisfy the Sushi craving that One and Two get from time to time. Enjoy.

CONTINENTAL FOR DRINKS & ZAHAV FOR DINNER

The weather warmed last night, beckoning people out of their cozy homes to experience the city released from the bone chilling weather of last week. One and Two started their evening at the Continental at 2nd and Walnut. One had an Old Fashioned...a warming yet refreshing drink that did not skimp on the Maker’s Mark. Two had a Ketel One Cosmopolitan which had a great splash of citrus. Needless to say the walk up to Zahav was further warmed by these delightful concoctions. The room at Zahav is large with windows opening to the kitchen. Neither One nor Two have been to any countries that specialize in the food served at Zahav, so they had no basis by which to critique the authenticity of the decor. This lack of basis for comparison is often the case when going to a restaurant specializing in ethnic food, so we can only assess whether the decor contributes or detracts in any way to the whole experience. The room felt to Two like just another big restaurant decorated by a hip designer with a Middle Eastern flair. Nothing special but nothing terrible either. One and Two were led to a smaller dining room set off from the larger one. Unfortunately someone had recently wiped the hammered copper tabletop with a strong smelling cleaning solution that One had a hard time appreciating. So often those first moments at a restaurant really set the tone. Two sat down across from one and immediately started redesigning the tables to be 6 inches narrower so that she could hear her companion and maybe even reach his hand. The waiter arrived to “educate” us in his ubiquitous waiter cadence about how the menu worked. The menu has a section of starters and then three categories: Dairy, Meat, and Grilled Over Coals. Dessert follows. One and Two chose the tasting menu, as it seemed a reasonable value, was fairly flexible, and allowed for selections from all areas of the menu.

One enjoyed ordering from the wine list. Selections from Lebanon, Morocco, and Israel were among the regions represented which provided a fun opportunity to sample something new. He selected a Sauvignon Blanc from Lebanon that was fruity, tart, and dry with a nice hint of Granny Smith apple which complemented everything. The meal started with the Salatim & Hummus with Laffa. The waiter brought first a plate of hummus and flat bread to the table and then the Salatim. Two had recently heard of a competition in Israel and Palestine to create the biggest serving of Hummus. The record is held by chefs in Abu Ghosh who whipped up more than 4,000 kg. of hummus, adding a Guinness Book record to the Arab town's reputation for hospitality and harmony . In that area of the world Hummus is not only a staple food but also a point of competition. The restaurateurs interviewed claimed with conviction their hummus to be the best in the land. The man interviewing them tasted their hummus and described it. For those of you familiar with hummus in little plastic containers in the grocery store, sit down. Hummus can be as varied as the people making it. It can be smooth, coarse, lemony, and the list goes on. The hummus at Zahav is excellent. It has a smooth but not pasty consistency and is served with warm puffy flat bread. Again, One and Two found it hard not to fill up on the bread. We highly recommend the Salatim. It is served in 8 small dishes and offers a great selection of small salad and vegetable creations that highlight the flavors of the cuisine. One and Two felt that they would have been better presented along with the dishes that followed as accompaniments. The eggplant and the okra were excellent. The chopped parsley, pomegranate seeds, and couscous were a great combination that would have been wonderful beside the bronzino that was to follow. Little hot relishes were placed beside the Salatim and were used throughout the meal for flavor. One ordered Malauch which combined a coarse tomato and roasted pepper puree with egg yolk and kashkaval. The puree had a well balanced smoky flavor, the egg yolk added an interesting touch, and the cheese added a pungent dimension. Two ordered Israeli Persimmon Salad with Bulgarian feta, green olives, and endive. Again the dish had an agreeable balance created by the sweetness of the persimmons, the very sheepy (think barnyard) feta cheese, and the bitter endive. Both dishes delivered an overall experience of a dominant flavor with other flavors providing backup voices. One followed his Dairy course by choosing Sweetbread Schnitzel with sesame, barberries, and pickled cabbage. The Schnitzel took the form of fried cubes, crowned by nicely cured cabbage, resting in a sauce. Two had Kibbe Naya. Both preferred the crisp juxtaposed to the tender effect of the sweetbread. The Kibbe was stickier...almost pasty. Both dishes were, however, nicely flavored and beautifully presented. And again, Two really wanted those little Salatim selections to come back. Al Ha’esh means grilled over coals. One ordered the Jaffa which was Bronzino, bulgar pilaf, dates and celery. Two ordered Monsieur Merguez but got the Bronzino as well somehow. Of all the dishes it had the strongest flavors. Not only was the fish characteristically strong but so was the caramelized celery and date combination. This dish would have been wonderful with something to lighten the flavors in between bites. Dessert followed with One ordering the Dark Chocolate Babka and Two choosing the Labaneh Panna Cotta. The Panna Cotta was outrageous. The pistachio baklava beside it came in the form of a small square and lacked the punch of a more traditional baklava. But again, the lemon combined with the pistachio and the smoothness of the panna cotta were an inspired combination. One was not as happy with his chocolate dough ball. He started looking for a scoop of ice cream which is never a good sign.

Zahav excelled in our estimation at combining what are traditional ingredients to the cuisine of the middle east with creativity. No dish had too much or too little of any ingredient. Flavors were well balanced. Portions were well suited to sharing between two people. Zahav would be fun with a large group. Try as many dishes as possible and share. Keep the Salatim around as you eat and use it to accent the dishes as they arrive. Above all do not eat a big forkful of the hot green relish as Two did by accident unless there is a big piece of flat bread at hand.

JEAN-GEORGES NEW YORK

How does a restaurant earn the coveted WhereTwoEat 5 mortar and pestles? Let's start with examining why we go out to eat. Hunger. Ease. Diversity.Entertainment.Socialization.On some rare occasions however, you may find yourself walking into a space where almost immediately things seem different. The room is welcoming. The smells from the cooking are entrancing. The host or hostess makes you feel as if you and only you are expected and welcome. Your table is just right. The menu is enticing. And as the food starts to arrive with perfect timing, beautifully plated, exquisitely prepared and presented, your heart begins to melt. Your shoulders drop. You sign to your companion and roll your eyes with delight. All senses join in the ecstasy of the meal. What cosmic forces align to create this transcendent dining experience? A restaurant may be a five one night to One and Two and a three on another night to someone else. So perhaps we should qualify our mortar and pestle system by saying that the scoring is based on the restaurant's potential to deliver a certain level of experience. This sounds like a bit of a disclaimer but my point is that a rating is a relative thing. One and Two can really only try to relate their experience and assess the symbiosis of elements that may have combined to lead to it. In thinking about our meal at Jean-Georges last summer, we have come to the agreement that a large part of our five M&P rating was due to the expert and gracious attentions of Hristo Zisovski.

Hristo Zisovski started cooking at one of his father’s diners in Rochester when he was 14 years old. He went on to enroll at the Culinary Institute of America. After an eating and drinking tour in France with Chef Voislav and Voislav's wife Stephanie, Hristo became completely enamored with wine. He took courses through the American Sommelier Association, where Chuck Simeone, then wine director at Jean Georges, was a lecturer. At the young age of 27, Hristo can now be found at Jean-Georges in NYC as Chef Sommelier. His work has received numerous glowing reviews. Of his experience at Jean-Georges, Maurice Graham Henry wrote of the"...fabulous wine pairings selected by Hristo." Additionally, Hristo Zisovski was third runner up for Best Sommelier in America by the American Sommelier Association of America.

Which brings us to the meal...

Hristo asked us two questions before we began our adventure with him: "Have you had breakfast?" and "What are you doing after you leave here?" We answered "No." and "Going to galleries." He smiled and said, " great...and by the way you are going back to your hotel to rest after this." We though this funny given our energy level but smiled back into his young face. After that everything was a blur. We sat in that restaurant from noon until 3PM. One started with Jean-Georges' signature egg caviar, a creamy smooth not quite scrambled egg mixture that is returned to the shell and lavished with caviar. Two had thin pieces of toast with poached eggs and caviar. Both were expertly paired with champagne. From there the day is a blur. Had One and Two been writing at the time they may have taken notes. But as it was they just sat back and soaked in the expert pairings of wines and beers and sakes with the tasting plates as they arrived. Hristo provided eloquent reasoning for his pairings. Every dish and every drink were beautifully matched. One and Two were served different things each time plates arrived, each carefully eating half, trying hard not to cheat with the really tasty morsels, and then switching plates. Dessert was exquisite. One had a chocolate tasting of four selections. Two's plate emphasized fruit. By the time the meal was over, One was wondering how they would get back to the hotel. Two was wondering if she could even find the door. Beyond the generous pourings of the various libations, the food, the atmosphere, indeed the whole experience was intoxicating. Thank you, Hristo. Go meet this young man and experience his passion for his profession first hand. Have something to eat while you are there...

CHEZ VOISLAV (yes...again)

One and Two are soon to be reporting as Two and Four as they head towards doubling their waistlines. Perhaps the New Year's resolutions should start...tomorrow. Last night the truffles reappeared at Chez Voislav. Resident pastry chef Nadezda served crepes, or Palacinke as they are know in her native country, with truffle infused Serbian orange blossom honey. They were made just feet away from the table and served in a stack warm from the pan. They were light, paper thin, and perfectly browned. Need we say more about this moment? We think not. You will not find more delightful crepes anywhere, and the addition of Chef Voislav's honey infusion pushed all right over that edge of truffle addiction.

PHO AND BEYOND

One cold, wintry, windy evening One and Two ventured out to have Vietnamese food. Someone recommended the new restaurant Pho and Beyond in Willow Grove. In all honesty, Two was looking forward to food arriving at home in little greasy bags to be eaten cross legged on the floor in front of the TV (please don’t tell her kids.) But One really seemed to have his heart set on a hot bowl of Pho. The only problem is that the hopelessly hyper critical and by now freezing cold Two was somewhat reticent and perhaps therefore predisposed to be hyper critical.

The door of Pho and Beyond opened into a smallish new restaurant. The decor was nouveau Asianish with fresh flowers placed on each table. Two hates dropped accoustic tile ceilings...One told her to calm down and get over it. Two wondered why the cascade of water in the front window hadn’t frozen over given the cold blasts of air that filled the room each time the door opened as she slid into a chair at the table for two and was greeted by a blanket of cold air blowing firmly across her lap. One asked to move and was cordially accommodated by being moved to the table that time, and the wait staff forgot. Eventually an order was taken and food began arriving in a timely manner. One had the fried pork belly spring roll. One and Two both agreed that it was very good, well presented, and filled with fresh ingredients. No complaints. Two had shrimp rolls on lemongrass skewers with peanuts and a delightfully light orange dipping sauce. Had the rolls been hot and crispy rather than warm and soft they would have been excellent. Given that the restaurant is new, Two would reorder them because the issue seemed more one of timing than quality. The appetizer plates sat on the table until One moved them out of the way for the waiter to set down the main courses. One had a Pho that he declared excellent. The broth was well seasoned and traditional, filled with meatballs, brisket, and flank steak. Bean sprouts, jalapeno, basil. and various herbs were set for him to add to the soup. All of the vegetables and herbs were exceptionally fresh and flavorful. One was happy. Two ordered a chicken curry with peanuts, coconut, and cilantro. Despite the addition of chili and then hoisin sauce, the dish simply lacked flavor. Two finally resorted to tearing up bits on One’s basil into the dish. The chicken was tender. The rice was properly cooked. The sauce had potential, but lacked depth. It took so long for the dishes to be cleared and for anyone to ask that we lost interest in dessert. Overall, we recommend the restaurant in a see for yourself, somewhat guarded fashion. They are new and in many ways our complaints are not uncommon for a new restaurant. We really couldn’t figure out why the table of eight right next to us had such wonderful service and ours was so poor. If eating is to be a holistic experience then perhaps go here for takeout and create the ambiance at home on the coffee table in front of the TV.

CHEZ VOISLAV

If you find yourself in Nice and feel like driving one hour to the town of Lourges visit Bruno's for what could only be described as a transformative gustatory experience. If you are unable to fly to France for dinner perhaps we can recreate the homage to Bruno's that Un et Deux experienced at Chez Voislav's on New Year's Day. We all have formative events that inform our passions. For our chef, the event that dominoed forward into the future of last night was an episode of Julie Child's The French Chef. Julia and vicariously her viewers visited a restaurant in France that specialized in the use of truffles...Brunos (uttered with a light sigh if the speaker has been there.) Later, while driving in France, Voislav and his wife Stephanie literally stumbled into the same restaurant that had captivated Voislav at the age of twelve while sitting in the family living room in Rochester, New York. They charmed their way into a lunch reservation the next day and eventually held their wedding at Bruno's. Un had the pleasure to attend. Deux has yet to have the pleasure, but was treated to a truffle dinner at Chez Voislav's last night.

Our first course was Brouilllard de Truffles Noir. The eggs had been nestled in the truffle box overnight so that their flavor was infused with the essence of the truffles. The eggs were then cooked with butter, truffle oil, and cream while being constantly whisked until they achieved a somewhat curd like texture. These eggs are more stroked than scrambled. Served in a lovely china cup on a matching saucer, these creamy eggs had an elegance that was beautifully balanced with the rustic earthiness of the grated truffles in the eggs and the shaved truffles that lay on the top. Deux ate hers slowly, guarding her cup while Un tried to lick his cup.

Next to arrive were the Pommes de Terre avec les Truffes Noir. Biting into a baked tuber was a nice contrast to the prior liquid consistency of the eggs. Each baked potato half rested in a light truffle cream sauce with truffle oil. Shaved truffles completed the dish. If excellence is to be achieved in any form of expression, one's experience of the result of the artistic endeavor should be multisensory. Bury your face in a potato engaged with a truffle and you bury your face in the earth of France. And if you have been there it will trigger memory. If not perhaps it will excite you to the point of buying a plane ticket. These potatoes were a mini flight to the soil of France. Bread was a must to soak up any lingering sauce on the plate.

The 1982 Chateau Margaux was a wonderful compliment to the leg of lamb infused with fresh oregano, Dijon mustard, and truffle extract. The chef's method of infusing the lamb with these flavors is his secret and testament to his creativity. The strong flavor of the lamb, whose center was perfectly medium rare, pushed the truffle back into a position of accompanist for the main course. Chef Alex created a delightfully earthy porcini, fresh pea, and Parmesan risotto with shaved truffles that was served with the lamb. Hercules, the resident chien at Chez Voislav, lovingly cleaned the remaining lamb from the bone.

Un et Deux agreed that a simple salad of mixed greens between the potato and the lamb courses would have been a welcome respite to the wintery weight of the menu. Were we sick of truffles by the end of our truffle dinner? Mais non! Duex suspects that truffles may have an addictive quality. The more we ate of them the more we wanted. Shaved, grated, and infused in oil these little black nuggets danced across our palettes until we rose from the table and loosened our belts once again.